Step 21: Reconnect the hydraulic line for the concentric slave cylinder assembly by sliding the hydraulic line onto the transmissions connector and installing the retainer clip.

Step 22: Reconnect the shifter mount arm to the transmission and connect the linkage.

Step 23: Reinstall the transmission mount by jacking up the rear of the transmission and bolting the mount to the frame.

Step 24: Reconnect the driveshaft to the transmission output flange.

Step 25: Reinstall the OEM H-pipe by connecting the upper end of H-pipe to the exhaust manifold and reconnecting the lower end to the exhaust pipes.

Step 26: Reinstall the starter motor

Step 27: Reinstall the clutch and flywheel dust shield.

Step 28: Reconnect the oxygen sensors and lower the car and reconnect the battery.

Step 29: Bleed the clutch by using a injection-bleeding tool. Connect the bleeding tool to the master cylinder and connect a high pressure air line. This creates a vacuum in the master cylinder allowing the positive pressure to draw the air bubbles from the hydraulic line when the clutch pedal is actuated. You should do this process for several minutes to ensure all the air is removed.

Important Note: Breaking in the clutch is a very important part of the installation. Different clutch materials have different break in time; the Kevlar material in the THREE.TWO requires about 500 miles before it broken in completely. The Ceramic material in the FOUR.THREE requires only 100 miles before it's completely broken in.

Once the clutch is broken in, drivability will be much better and you can beat on it as hard as you want.